Hey fashion, it’s time for a new look!
In a city celebrated for its eclectic edge, innovation, and willingness to push boundaries when it comes to fashion, London Fashion Week SS25 was a true showcase of talent, culture, and creativity. Mainstays like JW Anderson demonstrated how to do more with less while newcomers such as Skepta's MAINS brought 90s/00s garage nights and collegiate nostalgia to the catwalk. Even more exciting was the surge of brands weaving sustainability into their shows. For these designers, the intersection of heritage and circularity took centre stage, with innovative approaches that never compromised on style. From upcycled fabrics to meticulous craftsmanship, designers like Priya Ahluwalia, Patrick McDowell, and Chopova Lowena are leading the charge—seamlessly blending cultural storytelling with environmental consciousness, in a way that feels authentic, a natural byproduct of making fashion for the future.
Published: 19th September 2024
Words: Lydia Oyeniran
Patrick McDowell
Patrick McDowell’s ‘Portraits of a Painter’ SS25 show explores dual existence through the lived experience of British painter Glyn Philpot; reconciling identity markers of society and status with true queer expression. Each piece is infused with emotional energy, brought to life by McDowell’s dedication to taking garments with history and weaving in new narratives. The star of the show was undoubtedly the final look: a wedding dress, reworked with black mesh, from one of Glyn’s relatives for the finale. The brand is known for its complimentary refits and redesigns at any time, allowing cherished pieces to be passed on to loved ones, creating long-lasting heritage, and keeping garments in circulation for as long as possible.
Photo credit: TagWalk
“Creative vision and sustainability can go hand in hand and actually, they complement each other and you can create something incredible that is better for the planet.” —Patrick McDowell (for Bricks Magazine)
Ahluwalia
Dubbed an “homage to soulful ties between identity and home”, Priya Ahluwalia’s Home Sweet Home SS25 collection ponders what home means to her, as both physical place and concept. Drawing on her Indian and Nigerian heritage, the collection reflects a deep respect for her roots, honouring generations of immigrants, and the preservation of culture through beading, prints, knits, and drapes. It’s this respect for her origins that led Priya at the start of Ahluwalia, to Lagos’ Aswani market, where secondhand clothes from the West are discarded, and to Panipat, India - the global garment recycling capital. Both visits inspired a commitment to environmental and community consciousness, with garments made in female-owned factories, using surplus, post-consumer fabrics, recycled and organic materials. They also partner with SOJO to provide tailoring and repair services, extending the life of each piece.
Photo credit: Vogue
"Being environmentally and socially conscious is something that is very important to us, we want people to engage with the history of each garment, how it was made, where it has come from and, when they’re finished enjoying the piece, to be able to give it a new life." —Priya Ahluwalia
Chopova Lowena
Chopova Lowena’s SS25 collection draws inspiration from “female folk heroines of the American Wild West” and Olympic gymnastics teams throughout the ages. Juxtaposing folklore with sportswear—a signature of the brand that honours both designers' personal passions—this collection continues their commitment to sustainability, utilising recycled materials and deadstock textiles, often sourced from pillowcases and aprons. Rooted in a deep appreciation for skill and craft, Chopova Lowena employs highly talented female artisans from a community of seamstresses in Bulgaria (a nod to Chopova’s parental heritage). The brand’s anthropological approach to design results in distinctive garments that rejuvenate cultural heritage, preserving the beauty and craftsmanship of traditional techniques while infusing edgy new takes that are inherently mindful of environmental impact.
“Kick the bloody doors in, destroy, redesign, create something new”
Photo credit: Vogue
As these collections prove, it’s possible to create fashion that’s as sustainable as it is innovative. Brands that embrace circularity continue to set a new standard for the industry. For other labels looking to follow suit, the path to sustainability doesn't have to be daunting. With the help of tools like CircKit, your fashion brand can make informed decisions about sourcing low-impact fabrics, balance cost with environmental considerations, and seamlessly showcase your sustainability efforts. The future of fashion is circular, and technology is here to help make it a reality. Try CircKit today!
