Timelessness has become a hallmark of circular fashion; a term associated with quality, craftsmanship, and transcendence beyond the seasonality of trends. Typically defined by versatility and durability, timeless pieces are crafted to last, maintaining longevity and relevance over time and embodying an understated and simplistic aesthetic avoiding overt references to specific eras. By its own definition, timelessness transcends the confinements of any one particular aesthetic, yet a quick search for ‘timeless fashion’ on Pinterest returns predictable iterations of the same minimalist staples: ‘blue jeans and a crisp white shirt’, tailored trousers, boxy blazers, and fine knits; looks characterised by clean lines, classic fit and a distinctly minimal approach to colour, pattern, and print.
One brand that has come to epitomise timeless fashion is Eileen Fisher. With a design philosophy built on simple shapes and capsule wardrobe staples, each piece serves a specific purpose—qualities that have long been at the forefront of what we consider ‘circular fashion’ design to be today. Built on an ethos of sustainability and conscious consumption, brands like this successfully appeal to customers who prioritise practicality and ease over perceived fashionability; acting as a blueprint for engagement with circular design principles. But where does this leave mainstream brands?
Photo credit: @eileenfisherny on Instagram
Trendy vs Timeless
The argument surrounding what makes a fashion piece ‘trendy’ versus ‘timeless’ feeds into a narrative that casts fashion-focused brands outside the classic, minimal aesthetic as inherently wasteful and ephemeral. We often associate the fashion industry with an insatiable demand for novelty, yet the flip side of this need for newness is an unparalleled potential for creativity and innovation. A quick browse on a fast fashion website for a party dress, for example, returns an array of possibilities, from length, cut, and silhouette to fabric, fit, and colour. Fashion’s charm and allure lies in its variety and possibility which means that an industry where every brand is focused on producing wardrobe basics simply wouldn’t work. Yet the fact remains that this constant churn of new designs leaves a devastating impact on the planet and its resources.
This tension raises critical questions: does our current vision of timelessness inherently limit the scope for creativity? Is there a place for bold, expressive design in circular fashion?
Published: 15th November 2024
Words: Lydia Oyeniran
Timelessness is in the eye of the beholder
The prevailing perception of what constitutes timeless fashion often leans towards an objective view: classic, minimal, simple. However, one could argue that timelessness is, in fact, inherently subjective: in the eye of the beholder.
Consider GANNI, a brand whose design philosophy embraces the bold and expressive, with signature mantras such as “leopard print is a GANNI neutral”, epitomising the strength of their creative identity. For consumers who consider leopard print to be a wardrobe staple, leopard print truly does function as a neutral, lending GANNI’s pieces a timeless appeal for its audience. GANNI remains committed to proving that circular fashion doesn’t have to be basic even as the brand acknowledges the difficulties in balancing circularity with design-led choices:
Photo credit: @ganni on Instagram
“Unfortunately, our work on designing for circularity is increasingly becoming harder to push, as we are essentially designing for systems that do not exist yet, and designing without the assurance that the clothes designed for circularity will, in fact, end up in a closed-loop system. This major blocker, alongside being a design-driven brand that is well-known for its distinct use of print, colour and trims makes it a hard battle to face.” — GANNI
Despite these challenges, it remains clear that if the ultimate goal is to create clothing that consumers will cherish in their wardrobe for years to come, the aim shouldn’t be to steer consumers toward minimalism; but should rather be to craft pieces that resonate aesthetically with the customer, integrating circularity as an added value. With overproduction and deadstock contributing heavily to the industry’s waste problem, now more than ever it is essential to consider not what is ‘timeless’ in a universal sense but what is timeless to the brand's customers specifically. Matching consumer demand remains one of the industry’s core challenges, but by honing in on the customer’s style priorities, brands can begin to develop signature pieces with timeless appeal.
Limitation as liberation
The question of what to create offers a vast and limitless opportunity which may at first seem ideal, however the reality is that having boundless options can often dilute a designer’s point of view, making it considerably more difficult to establish a cohesive aesthetic. Faced with infinite possibilities, an accelerating trend cycle and a lack of accurate demand forecasting; knowing what to design can become overwhelming, leading to unfocused all-you-can-eat buffet style-designs, offering a little bit of everything for everyone. In such cases, implementing creative constraints can actually unlock new forms of creativity, forcing designers to reimagine familiar concepts with fresh takes that are truly memorable.
Take JW Anderson’s SS25 show in which the designer limited his focus to just four fabrications (cashmere, leather, silk and sequins), fostering innovation through structural masterpieces that played with scale, weight, texture and silhouette to deliver genuinely striking results.
Photo credit: @jw_anderson on Instagram
Such an approach when considered from a circular design perspective, reframes the limitations of reduced reliance on problematic materials such as polyester, instead showcasing how such limitations can actually fuel inventiveness. By committing to 100% recyclable, sustainable materials, fashion brands have the opportunity to develop strong, signature looks without sacrificing versatility.
Become trend-immutable
Similarly, brands can cultivate timeless appeal by mastering a distinct aesthetic and becoming trend-immutable. This is evident in the work of Sandy Liang, patron saint of ‘girlhood’-inspired fashion; a look that has garnered significant popularity over the last few years. As microtrends like balletcore and bow-mania reached new peaks in 2023, Liang’s designs felt authentic rather than opportunistic. The designer explains:
“It's one of those things that I've always been drawn to, and it's cool to see it be a trend and people appreciate it. But also, as a designer, you're like, 'Well, that's not a thing that's 'trendy' to me; that's a forever thing of mine.' But honestly, people associate me with it, and I'm not mad about it.” —Sandy Liang for HighSnobiety
Liang’s commitment to these motifs, regardless of their trend status, creates a timeless brand universe that deeply resonates with her customers.
Photo credit: @sandyliang on Instagram
Choosing to innovate within a specific aesthetic or set of design principles rather than being subject to transient trends can allow fashion brands to retain creative originality while maintaining lasting appeal. Such an approach not only cultivates customer loyalty but also supports principles of circularity, by making clothes designed to remain in wardrobes and out of landfill for years to come.
So how can we redefine timeless fashion for the modern, design-led brand?
Photo credit: Vogue
1. Develop a clear brand identity - whether you’re a basics brands or design-led, establish a signature point of view that reflects your brand’s ethos. This will allow you to avoid chasing fleeting trends and refocus on building a recognisable, cohesive design language that resonates with your target customer.
2. Embrace creative constraints - Limit your use of conventional materials and lean into innovative and sustainable alternatives that challenge you to find creative ways to approach the same designs.
3. Prioritise consumer-centric timelessness - shift focus from universal ‘timelessness’ to hone in on what is timeless for your specific customer. Understanding the aesthetic preferences that resonate most deeply with your customers will help to create your brand’s own timeless staples; designing pieces they cherish for years to come.
4. Reinvent core designs - refresh signature styles and silhouettes instead of creating entirely new pieces each season. By recycling unsold stock and experimenting with fabrications, colours, or subtle design tweaks, your brand can maintain freshness while staying true to your brand DNA.
5. Embed circular principles into your creative process - design with end-of-life and circular systems in mind, exploring features such as modular design or reversible garments while maintaining your brand’s unique style. This will ensure your designs remain timeless not just aesthetically but in functionality and longevity.
By striking the right balance between circular innovation, strong brand identity and lasting, meaningful appeal, timelessness is redefined to support both mainstream fashion consumers and brands, leading to an industry that truly is circular by design.
CircKit.ai helps fashion and textile brands unlock new growth and profitability through circular design and end-of-life initiatives. Sign up to find out how our circularity toolkit could benefit your fashion business.
Further Reading:
High-End Fashion No More Durable Than Fast Fashion, Report Discovers by Brooke Roberts-Islam - Forbes
Your stuff is actually worse now by Izzie Ramirez - Vox
Is Chanel's 'Absolute Luxury' Push Working? by Robert Williams - Business of Fashion
As a Global Recession Looms, Quiet Luxury Returns by Chantal Fernandez - Business of Fashion
What the Quiet Luxury Trend Means for Sustainability by Sarah Kent - Business of Fashion
Right to repair: Making repair easier and more appealing to consumers - European Parliament
